September Warm Season Turf Care

GOT ZOYSIA PROBLEMS? PROACTIVE APPLICATIONS ARE BEST!

Ever since “burning” zoysia thatch has been outlawed, there appears to be an increase in zoysia “decline”.  Too many problems are misdiagnosed.  My feeling is that if you want your zoysia you have to be proactive (address issues before they become issues) with disease and insect applications or you will be “fixing” your lawn year after year. You have to remember zoysia is a “warm” season grass, so fixing it is best between late April and mid September.

Here a few steps you should take if you are serious about making or keeping your zoysia healthy:

*Remove thatch by power raking in the spring (April 15-May 15) or by next week (because the ground is so warm). Don’t this too early in the year because you can cause more harm then good if we get a late frost!).

*Apply fungicide like “Headway” at 4#/1000 ft. sq September 15-30, October 15-30 AND again April 15-30. If you can’t do all three, don’t do ANY of them. They all work together and pretty much useless as an each. Like so many things in life, they work together for the common good. Pretty expensive (around $75-85 per 30# bag), but very effective if you truly have a fungus problem!

*Apply a systemic (long lasting) insecticide like “Merit (r)” in Mid April and again in Mid July. This will take care of all insects for the year. It’s the “Hunting Bill Bug” that causes the most damage to zoysia and these applications will control all insects for the year.

*Spot spray weeds as needed for the next couple of weeks. By October 1^st you probably won’t be able to spray herbicides on zoysia. (read the label)!

*Apply a high Potash (last number on the fertilizer bag) fertilizer any time this month. DO NOT apply high nitrogen “winterizer” from a big box store. All “winterizers” are not created equally. Warm season lawns need totally different fertilizers at totally different times then their cool season counterparts. Know your grass type and the right fertilizer for the right time of the year and you will have a successful lawn

Remember that all of these applications work together. Any one of them can help, but not like if you do all of them together at the right time and at the right rates. I preach about knowing your grass type and making a plan to do the right things at the right time because they work! Skipping or taking short cuts don’t work.

This can be confusing, so don’t hesitate to shot me an email or give me a call and I’ll be glad to clear up the mud.

Enjoy the cool weather and pray for some rain will ya!

Remember folks, it’s just grass!

Glenn Kraemer

SEPTEMBER:RENOVATE AND RESCUE YOUR COOL SEASON LAWN

A nice 7-8 hour rain fall that would drop 1” of water would be really nice about now…we have to have our dreams!

The renovation process should go forward as long as you have an irrigation system and you are willing to run it EVERY day for 2-3 weeks (and maybe even twice a day!?). We about 5” behind in rain fall in our area. If you don’t get this free newsletter from the University of Missouri (http://turfpath.missouri.edu/reports/update09_05_13.cfm) you should. It will single handedly provide you with enough information about grass growing and when and how to do things as you can get. Dr. Lee Miller produces this and I have relied on his information to explain a lot of weather related problems. Sign up for the newsletter and you will better educated turf grass decisions!

Below are step-by-step instructions on how to renovate your cool season lawns:

Step-By-Step Cool Season Renovation Practices

1. September is the ideal month to do this. Your next chance will be March or early April.
2. Decide if herbicides are needed. Read the label and apply 2 weeks prior to seeding.
3. Remove debris in the yard and use top soil to level rough areas.
4. Mow the grass at 2”, but reset the wheel immediately back to 3.5 inches. You want to mow it all into the winter until the last cut.
5. Flag the irrigation heads and utilities so they are not damaged by the machines.
6. Spread organic matter (compost, peat moss or top soil mix) if necessary.
7. “Core” aerate or power rake the lawn. You can’t aerate too much! If you power rake, you have rake up and remove the thatch.
8. Spread your seed and fertilizer.
9. Power rake or hand rake areas to increase seed to soil contact! This insures the seed won’t wash away and birds won’t eat it. Don’t apply straw!
10. Top dress areas that may need additional compost, peat moss or top soil. Bare areas should be covered with Penn Mulch ®.
11. Water EVERY day for 2-3 week. Keep the top ½” moist, but puddle free. You may have to water in the evening as well depending on the soil and the weather.
12. Mow (with a bag) after 2-3 weeks and then you can water 3-4 days a week after you have even germination.
13. After 3-4 mowings, go ahead spot spray weeds as needed. Fall is a great time to control certain weeds!
14. Keep leaves removed all fall! Smothering leaves will kill all your new grass plants if left on the ground. Chop them up or remove them every 3-5 days!

These steps have proven to be very effective, but if you have your own spin on how to get things, then by all means do it your way. Over seed rate for most lawn seeds is 35- pounds per 1000 ft sq or 8-10 pounds when starting over! Next month I’ll give you tips on “winterizing” the lawn and late fall weed control applications!

September 11 is coming up. I always have a little trouble staying focused on that day. Immaculate Conception in Maplewood is having a blood drive from 3-7 (I believe) and I’ve made a note to donate blood on that day. I will make me feel good to visit the church and donate some A+ blood (with CMV Neg in it) to someone who needs it. I hope all who read this will reflect on that day how fortunate we are. Maybe for a day, our problems won’t be as bad?

Remember folks, it’s just grass!