Sunday, September 25, 2011

Weekly Turf Truth September 25th, A Word to the Wise (about Water and Wind)

Cool Dry Windy Days Good for flying kites, rough on new turf seedlings! 
  
*Be sure you keep watering your new seedlings (and plants). Even though it is cool, plants still will dry out with wind. We don’t want the lawn or plants, to be stressed going into winter!

*Continue to mow at 3-3 ½”. Around Mid November, you can consider mowing 2 ¾ to 3”.

*Be sure to keep the leaves removed. Not with a rake, but with a leaf blower or by using the lawn mower with a bag. Returning too many clippings or “mulched” product can smoother the new seedlings! Be careful and when in doubt, just remove them.

*Plan to fertilize in late October and once again in late November. Fall fertilizers should be at least 50% and even better if they are 100% slow release nitrogen. These fall feedings will provide winter hardiness and early spring green up without having to apply quick release nitrogen in the spring. Organic base fertilizers at high rates are fine too!

*If you have mowed the new seedlings 2-3 times and you still have some broadleaf weeds to deal with, we suggest using Turflon Ester. This can be used all fall as long the air temperature is above 40-45 degrees. It does a good job on violets, but must be sprayed twice about 2 weeks apart.

*Continue to trap or poison moles as they are very active right now. The more they move the easier they are to trap or poison.

 Be care full and read the labels of any products you use in the yard!

Blessings to you and your thirsty landscape (Isaiah 58:11)

Glenn

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

September Truth n Turf Weekly Blog About


*Rain has softened up the soil so don’t put off seeding the cool season lawns any longer. As Larry the Cable Guy would say…”Git er done”

*Leaves have started falling already, so get ready to remove them by blowing them or using your bagger to collect them. Don’t let them accumulate for more then 3-4 days as they can smoother your new seedlings very easily. Mulching them can be just a dangerous as leaving them lay. REMOVE them!

*Follow treatments of fertilizer with slow release properties in them are very important. The fall applications (October and November) are the most important treatment you can make.

*Forget spraying for weeds for now. The cool temperatures forecasted are going make them dormant and will delay seeding. Don’t delay seeding!

*Core aeration allows us to introduce organic matter into the soil profile, so top dress (Compost, Soil Master, soil) BEFORE aerating and more product will get into the root zone as opposed to staying on top of the soil.


*Rain has softened up the soil so don’t put off seeding the cool season lawns any longer. As Larry the Cable Guy would say…”Git er done”

*Leaves have started falling already, so get ready to remove them by blowing them or using your bagger to collect them. Don’t let them accumulate for more then 3-4 days as they can smoother your new seedlings very easily. Mulching them can be just a dangerous as leaving them lay. REMOVE them!

*Follow treatments of fertilizer with slow release properties in them are very important. The fall applications (October and November) are the most important treatment you can make.

*Forget spraying for weeds for now. The cool temperatures forecasted are going make them dormant and will delay seeding. Don’t delay seeding!

*Core aeration allows us to introduce organic matter into the soil profile, so top dress (Compost, Soil Master, soil) BEFORE aerating and more product will get into the root zone as opposed to staying on top of the soil.

Saturday, September 3, 2011

September: How to Love Your Lawn, Again


Glennon Kraemer/ G.R. Robinson Seed & Service 

Submitted by
Re Fink(MaryAnn)
Conservation Specialist

A recent conversation between Turf counselor, Glenn Kraemer and a first time client who was dishearten over his failed lawn.

Moments into the session it was clear there it was not too late, everything was going to be alright but there was some work to be done to improve his relationship issues, particularly defining what was "his turf". 

The problem was communication.   I have a great deal of hope and affection for anyone who cares so much but some times we need to  do some "relationship ground work" before "claiming" such a deep love.

How can you claim such affection without taking time to get to know some basic information?

With that in mind, Glenn agreed to let me "help on line" by sharing some questions, posting his frequently published articles and helping those who want to know the truth 'n turf.  I am sure we all want to know what it takes to maintain a healthy relationship with our lawns! 

Glenn’s articles are found in print and on line in the Gateway Gardener Magazine.  This is a free monthly magazine available at most local garden centers.  It can be found at many other locations as well. Pick up a copy for yourself and a friend and visit GWG’s website for lots of great specific gardening information for the lower Midwest region, especially for us in the St. Louis Metro area.  

Glenn and I discussed a few of several basic questions we think everyone needs to know before they can even begin “to care responsibly” for a lawn.  I assumed everyone would know what type of grass they are caring for, and the more frequent “stumped right off the bat” question is: “how large is my area?”

 As I finished this entry, three people have stopped to talk to me, and none were sure of what kind of grass is growing in their yard, so I guess I know what the next blog entry will be- “what kind of grass are you growing?”

For some beginners, the   "how to" measure the square footage of a lawn, is the first challenge.  We realize there are several basic questions everyone needs to know before they can begin to care for a lawn but “how big” dictates not just how much product you might need , but if some manual options are possible.

I hope these "instructions" on how I did this will help Glennon's current and future turf care customers.  We are sure the more you know, the more your affection for your lawn will grow too!  

Q: How do I figure the square footage of my lawn, it's not square!

I found the easiest way for me to figure my lawn was to draw out a basic site plan of my property.  I did this with a basic measuring tape.  I then compare it with the base property plan I received when I purchased my property.  This helped me get a general idea of what size area I was trying to manage and approximately how much product I needed for my turf.
   
Here is how I suggest others to do this:

Take your measurements and draw them out on to a sheet of graph paper (the paper with the little squares).  Now just "look "at your lawn areas, how are the spaces shaped?  For some property owners this will look like a few big rectangle or squares.  These are easy, just multiply one of the long sides by one of the short side and that should be the total square footage for that space.  Add each of the totals together and that should be a good approximate of your space.

For others, the base plan "picture" might look quite a bit more complicated with various size and shaped areas where turf / lawn and plantings look more like islands and puzzle shaped puddles once they are drawn out on paper.

Label each area and maybe color lightly all the turf spaces with pencil or colored pen just to help again "see the space” where you are growing grass.  It is a good idea to recheck each area again to be sure all turf areas are included and correct. 

Now just keep dividing the spaces into approximate shapes of squares, rectangles, circles or triangles and figure each shape’s square footage using the instructions below for each shape.  Seldom are any spaces are exact geometrical shapes so on paper re-frame these spaces with more exact shapes using whatever "best fits" the space. 

Using this method is only one fairly approximate way to become familiar with your landscape.  I offer this way as a suggestion, and as one way I have done my own "layout" of my landscape.

If you think you need more exact measurements, I do recommend hiring a lawn care professional.  Be sure you to explain what you need and that you will have a legible, to approximate scale map with at least the minimum details mentioned earlier, these are necessary.
This can be money well spent, as this may become your most  effective management tool as you become a follower and professional "implementer" of Glennon's  lawn care schedule, best known   as "The Plan"!

I keep a file with several copies of this drawing on hand.  These can be used for keeping all kinds of information, including planting changes.

I made notes on mine as various areas became more shaded by trees over time.  I also made notes about particular weed populations or insect "problem areas" and a side note as to the time of year it might require more attention or treatment. 

I also suggest labeling your map with a priority number based on each spaces visibility, prime time usage, or problem management.  For example, if some weed is invasive and likely to become a bigger issue in more areas later, even if it isn’t at your doorstep now, it may raise your priority level and the type of control options necessary to eliminate it.

Bring this “map” of your property with you when you come to Glenn to discuss “The Plan" for your turf.  I think he will be pleased to know if this blog entry was a helpful. 

Most of all, taking this "next step up" will help you know your property, your land’s "history" and help make you be a better "grounds keeper" whether you are a homeowner or lawn care professional!

Please understand, this is just my relationship story and how I got to know my turf. It is just meant as a guide, if I was in a new relationship or on "unfamiliar ground" I might opt to add an additional 10% to the total I calculated to account for any miscalculations or mistakes.  Please, at all times, follow Glenn’s advice!
Here is a link on how to figure each shape:


Helping Glenn, helping Him,

....Re

(Celebrating Joanne Sampl, her life and Next Step Up Communications!)