Friday, December 9, 2011

December 2011 Final Notes for Cool Season Turf Care

Final notes for cool season turf care:

*Last mowing should be at 2 to 2 ½ inches
*It’s not too late to “winterize” the lawn with high nitrogen, slow release fertilizers
*It’s also not too late to spot spray broadleaf weeds with “Ester” formula herbicides. You can spray as long the air temperatures are 40 or above. Henbit and Chickweed are very aggressive right now!
*Continue to remove leaves as best you can, but especially on newly seeded lawns
*Mulching leaves is OK, but only if you don’t suffocate the turf
*Soil testing is suggested for problem lawns. Correcting the Ph and nutrient deficiencies is best to do over the winter
*Drain the gas, turn off the value or put fuel stabilizer in your power equipment

*Finally, tell your loved you love them again…they can’t hear enough and we can’t say it enough.

Thank you and I hope you have safe and Happy Holidays,

Glennon Kraemer/Owner
GR Robinson Seed & Service Co
314-432-0300


Monday, October 17, 2011

October 17th 2011 Turf E-mail Questions and Answers

To: 'Glennon Kraemer'
Subject: When is too late to put down seed?
or Sod?
......Worried I am running out of time! 

If the sod farm will cut sod, it’s OK to lay it. You just have to have water for it to be successful. Once you have sod laid and watered, you can spray it with “Anti-Desiccants” like “Wilt-Pruf®”. This is basically a diluted wax that slows down water lose. After about November 1st, sod is very risky without regular watering and that is when most people have their irrigation and hose bibs winterized.

Seed is totally different. You can seed anytime. It’s the results and action in the spring that will change. Seed needs two things to germinate..soil temperature and moisture. The seed will ly in the ground and do nothing all winter until next spring. Some will die, but usually 80-90% makes it until next spring. You can’t put out preemergent until that new seed has been mowed 2-3 times, so that forces you to use “Dimension” preemergent around April 25-30th. Spring seeding (March 1-15th) will be treated the same way. If leaves are big concern, I suggest waiting until you can do a good spring clean up before seeding.

You never flood a basement or buy a new back flow preventer for you irrigation system because you turned the system or your water off too early. Life is a gamble, it’s up to you to decide how late the water stays on. I never let my water stay on past November 1st or turn it on earlier then May 1st.

Any evergreen planted this fall should be sprayed with Anti-Desiccants in late October/early November and again in February. Read the label (as with any applications in our yards) because the temperatures play a big roll in the timing of the applications!

*Keep removing the leaves from the yards that got seed this fall.
*Fertilize with high nitrogen fertilizers
*Spot spray chick weed, clover and dandelions as long the air temperature is above 45 degrees!
*Mow until growth stops. We should get in at least 3-4 more mowings in this fall yet!

Thanks,

Glenn




Sunday, September 25, 2011

Weekly Turf Truth September 25th, A Word to the Wise (about Water and Wind)

Cool Dry Windy Days Good for flying kites, rough on new turf seedlings! 
  
*Be sure you keep watering your new seedlings (and plants). Even though it is cool, plants still will dry out with wind. We don’t want the lawn or plants, to be stressed going into winter!

*Continue to mow at 3-3 ½”. Around Mid November, you can consider mowing 2 ¾ to 3”.

*Be sure to keep the leaves removed. Not with a rake, but with a leaf blower or by using the lawn mower with a bag. Returning too many clippings or “mulched” product can smoother the new seedlings! Be careful and when in doubt, just remove them.

*Plan to fertilize in late October and once again in late November. Fall fertilizers should be at least 50% and even better if they are 100% slow release nitrogen. These fall feedings will provide winter hardiness and early spring green up without having to apply quick release nitrogen in the spring. Organic base fertilizers at high rates are fine too!

*If you have mowed the new seedlings 2-3 times and you still have some broadleaf weeds to deal with, we suggest using Turflon Ester. This can be used all fall as long the air temperature is above 40-45 degrees. It does a good job on violets, but must be sprayed twice about 2 weeks apart.

*Continue to trap or poison moles as they are very active right now. The more they move the easier they are to trap or poison.

 Be care full and read the labels of any products you use in the yard!

Blessings to you and your thirsty landscape (Isaiah 58:11)

Glenn

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

September Truth n Turf Weekly Blog About


*Rain has softened up the soil so don’t put off seeding the cool season lawns any longer. As Larry the Cable Guy would say…”Git er done”

*Leaves have started falling already, so get ready to remove them by blowing them or using your bagger to collect them. Don’t let them accumulate for more then 3-4 days as they can smoother your new seedlings very easily. Mulching them can be just a dangerous as leaving them lay. REMOVE them!

*Follow treatments of fertilizer with slow release properties in them are very important. The fall applications (October and November) are the most important treatment you can make.

*Forget spraying for weeds for now. The cool temperatures forecasted are going make them dormant and will delay seeding. Don’t delay seeding!

*Core aeration allows us to introduce organic matter into the soil profile, so top dress (Compost, Soil Master, soil) BEFORE aerating and more product will get into the root zone as opposed to staying on top of the soil.


*Rain has softened up the soil so don’t put off seeding the cool season lawns any longer. As Larry the Cable Guy would say…”Git er done”

*Leaves have started falling already, so get ready to remove them by blowing them or using your bagger to collect them. Don’t let them accumulate for more then 3-4 days as they can smoother your new seedlings very easily. Mulching them can be just a dangerous as leaving them lay. REMOVE them!

*Follow treatments of fertilizer with slow release properties in them are very important. The fall applications (October and November) are the most important treatment you can make.

*Forget spraying for weeds for now. The cool temperatures forecasted are going make them dormant and will delay seeding. Don’t delay seeding!

*Core aeration allows us to introduce organic matter into the soil profile, so top dress (Compost, Soil Master, soil) BEFORE aerating and more product will get into the root zone as opposed to staying on top of the soil.

Saturday, September 3, 2011

September: How to Love Your Lawn, Again


Glennon Kraemer/ G.R. Robinson Seed & Service 

Submitted by
Re Fink(MaryAnn)
Conservation Specialist

A recent conversation between Turf counselor, Glenn Kraemer and a first time client who was dishearten over his failed lawn.

Moments into the session it was clear there it was not too late, everything was going to be alright but there was some work to be done to improve his relationship issues, particularly defining what was "his turf". 

The problem was communication.   I have a great deal of hope and affection for anyone who cares so much but some times we need to  do some "relationship ground work" before "claiming" such a deep love.

How can you claim such affection without taking time to get to know some basic information?

With that in mind, Glenn agreed to let me "help on line" by sharing some questions, posting his frequently published articles and helping those who want to know the truth 'n turf.  I am sure we all want to know what it takes to maintain a healthy relationship with our lawns! 

Glenn’s articles are found in print and on line in the Gateway Gardener Magazine.  This is a free monthly magazine available at most local garden centers.  It can be found at many other locations as well. Pick up a copy for yourself and a friend and visit GWG’s website for lots of great specific gardening information for the lower Midwest region, especially for us in the St. Louis Metro area.  

Glenn and I discussed a few of several basic questions we think everyone needs to know before they can even begin “to care responsibly” for a lawn.  I assumed everyone would know what type of grass they are caring for, and the more frequent “stumped right off the bat” question is: “how large is my area?”

 As I finished this entry, three people have stopped to talk to me, and none were sure of what kind of grass is growing in their yard, so I guess I know what the next blog entry will be- “what kind of grass are you growing?”

For some beginners, the   "how to" measure the square footage of a lawn, is the first challenge.  We realize there are several basic questions everyone needs to know before they can begin to care for a lawn but “how big” dictates not just how much product you might need , but if some manual options are possible.

I hope these "instructions" on how I did this will help Glennon's current and future turf care customers.  We are sure the more you know, the more your affection for your lawn will grow too!  

Q: How do I figure the square footage of my lawn, it's not square!

I found the easiest way for me to figure my lawn was to draw out a basic site plan of my property.  I did this with a basic measuring tape.  I then compare it with the base property plan I received when I purchased my property.  This helped me get a general idea of what size area I was trying to manage and approximately how much product I needed for my turf.
   
Here is how I suggest others to do this:

Take your measurements and draw them out on to a sheet of graph paper (the paper with the little squares).  Now just "look "at your lawn areas, how are the spaces shaped?  For some property owners this will look like a few big rectangle or squares.  These are easy, just multiply one of the long sides by one of the short side and that should be the total square footage for that space.  Add each of the totals together and that should be a good approximate of your space.

For others, the base plan "picture" might look quite a bit more complicated with various size and shaped areas where turf / lawn and plantings look more like islands and puzzle shaped puddles once they are drawn out on paper.

Label each area and maybe color lightly all the turf spaces with pencil or colored pen just to help again "see the space” where you are growing grass.  It is a good idea to recheck each area again to be sure all turf areas are included and correct. 

Now just keep dividing the spaces into approximate shapes of squares, rectangles, circles or triangles and figure each shape’s square footage using the instructions below for each shape.  Seldom are any spaces are exact geometrical shapes so on paper re-frame these spaces with more exact shapes using whatever "best fits" the space. 

Using this method is only one fairly approximate way to become familiar with your landscape.  I offer this way as a suggestion, and as one way I have done my own "layout" of my landscape.

If you think you need more exact measurements, I do recommend hiring a lawn care professional.  Be sure you to explain what you need and that you will have a legible, to approximate scale map with at least the minimum details mentioned earlier, these are necessary.
This can be money well spent, as this may become your most  effective management tool as you become a follower and professional "implementer" of Glennon's  lawn care schedule, best known   as "The Plan"!

I keep a file with several copies of this drawing on hand.  These can be used for keeping all kinds of information, including planting changes.

I made notes on mine as various areas became more shaded by trees over time.  I also made notes about particular weed populations or insect "problem areas" and a side note as to the time of year it might require more attention or treatment. 

I also suggest labeling your map with a priority number based on each spaces visibility, prime time usage, or problem management.  For example, if some weed is invasive and likely to become a bigger issue in more areas later, even if it isn’t at your doorstep now, it may raise your priority level and the type of control options necessary to eliminate it.

Bring this “map” of your property with you when you come to Glenn to discuss “The Plan" for your turf.  I think he will be pleased to know if this blog entry was a helpful. 

Most of all, taking this "next step up" will help you know your property, your land’s "history" and help make you be a better "grounds keeper" whether you are a homeowner or lawn care professional!

Please understand, this is just my relationship story and how I got to know my turf. It is just meant as a guide, if I was in a new relationship or on "unfamiliar ground" I might opt to add an additional 10% to the total I calculated to account for any miscalculations or mistakes.  Please, at all times, follow Glenn’s advice!
Here is a link on how to figure each shape:


Helping Glenn, helping Him,

....Re

(Celebrating Joanne Sampl, her life and Next Step Up Communications!)



Monday, August 15, 2011

Rescue & Renovate your Cool Season Lawn

by Glennon Kraemer
Lawn /Turf Specialist
G. R. Robinson Seed & Service Co.
8674 Olive St.
St. Louis, MO 63132
314-432-0300



The more things change, the more they stay the same. That’s what it feels like with our summers around here anyway.

Early June brought record high temperatures, followed by cool temperatures and timely rains. July successfully baked the cool season lawns into submission.

Cool season lawns need “cool” temperatures at night for them to recover from the high day time temps. When we don’t get those cool nights, the lawns suffer (get diseases & weeds) and they won’t recover until the cool nights return. We can’t control the weather!

What we can control is how we prepare our lawns for next summer. One of the most important cultural practices we can have done to our lawns is aeration and over seeding. “Core” aeration will relieve compaction, allowing water, air, nutrients and organic matter to get into our soils. A healthy soil is the foundation for healthy grass.

The following steps should be taken to insure a healthy lawn this fall and into next summer:

*Spray weeds if needed. Read the label and wait the recommended time before aerating and seeding

*Remove all clutter in the yard and use top soil to level any uneven spots.

*Mow down to 2”. You won’t be able to mow again for 2-3 weeks, but remember to raise the mower back up to 3 ½”!!

*Mark irrigation heads and or dog fence wires

*Consider applying ½” of compost over the lawn to add organic matter to the soils profile. This can be expensive and time consuming, but if you want a better yard? Core aerate in 2 directions.

*Spread your “starter” fertilizer (I like 11-23-0 or Milorganite®) and seed.
Knowing your square footage is important to be sure you get the right amount seed and fertilizer. An educated garden center will insure you get the right kind of seed.

*Power rake or hand rake the yard smooth. This insures good seed to soil contact with will prevent the seed from drying out and eliminate the need to use straw. (I hate straw as I think it adds more weed seeds then it does well).

*Water everyday (and sometimes twice a day) for 2-3 weeks. You want to keep the top ½ moist, but not saturated! Penn Mulch® is a good top dressing material as this will not add weed seeds, but will help prevent erosion and keep the soil moist.

*Mowing at 3 ½” all fall will be important. As will removing leaves. Depending on the tree species, you may have to blow or vacuum leaves every other day to prevent the smothering of those new seedlings you worked so hard to establish.

*Water infrequently after mowing 2-3 times. Usually Mother Nature does this for us this time of year, but don’t let it dry out!

*Spot spray weeds after 2-3 mowings. Turflon ester® is an excellent herbicide to use in the fall. It works on violets and in cool temps.

*Try to get all seed jobs done before October 15th.

Consulting with a knowledgeable garden center (see attached ad for my recommendations) is important to get good, quality seed and fertilizer. It’s what we do in the fall to our cool season lawns (coupled with our cultural practices) that dictates success next summer! Upcoming blog will deal with fall fertilization.

Ecclesiastes 3:1-15

Remember folks,.... its just grass!  

 

Sunday, July 3, 2011

JULY Common Sense Summer Lawn Guide

by Glennon Kraemer
Lawn /Turf Specialist
G. R. Robinson Seed & Service Co.
8674 Olive St.
St. Louis, MO 63132
314-432-0300

gmmseed@sbcglobal.net


We are at the time of the year when the two types of lawns (warm and cool season) we have here are at their extreme opposites. Zoysia and Bermuda: love the heat, want to be mowed short and fertilized with high nitrogen fertilizers. The turf type tall fescues and bluegrass lawns: don’t like the heat, want to be mowed tall and want “safe’ fertilizers.(or none at all)

Here are some summer tips to get you by until the end of August:

Warm season lawns:

-Mow at 1-2 inches
-Fertilize with high nitrogen (with 50% slow release and 2-5% iron) fertilizers up to   August 15th                 
-Sod, plug or seed areas that need repair (yes, there is zoysia & bermuda seed!)
-Aerate or power rake if you have not already done so
-Apply grub controls in early July (Merit or Mach 2)
-Spray weeds as needed
-Water 2-3 days weeks

Cool season lawns:

-Mow at 3-3 1/2 inches
-Fertilize with Auxnite or some other “organic” source of fertilzer
-Don’t seed until fall, but do sod areas that need repair
-Apply grub controls in early July (Merit or Mach 2)
-Spray weeds as needed, but be careful of the temperatures and read your labels!
-Water deeply, 4 days a week. Never water every day (until you seed this fall)!
-Apply fungicides as needed. Remember, they only last about 25 days per application. Be     prepared to reapply or use that money on a good aeration and over seeding in September?

Following some simple rules will help keep your lawn healthy! Always call a professional when in doubt about a lawn application! Remember, it’s just grass

Sunday, May 1, 2011

May Time To Talk About Warm Season Lawns, Zoysia, Bermuda and Buffalo and How To Care For Them


by Glennon Kraemer
Lawn/Turf Spceialist
G.R. Robinson Seed & Service Co
8674 Olive St
St. Louis, MO 63132
314-432-0300



                                                                                                  

May is the best time to make your first applications to your warm season grasses. Until soil temperatures reach 60 degrees consistently, you are not going to get a whole lot of activity out of any of the warm season types. Your edges will green up faster then the rest of the yard! The most common types of warm season grasses are: Zoysia, Bermuda and Buffalo. They all have unique chacteristics and cultural needs. Below are the basics for all three.

Zoysia:
Mow at 1-2”. Be careful mowing at the height, because you can find water pipe covers and tree roots very easily and your lawn mowers crank shaft might not like either one of those. This grass loves to be mowed short (compared to cool season grasses) and will fill in much better when mowed at this height. Dense turf crowds out weeds, which allows you to use less herbicide! (This rule can be applied to all turf grasses) You will perform 20-25 cuts a year.

Fertilize with a high nitrogen fertilizer (35-3-5 or 22-0-0) or an organic (Milorganite, etc) on May 15-30th and again July15-30th. Apply ¾-1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 ft. sq. Highly visible lawns can get an application of Ironite (granule iron) in late August if you want to keep it greener longer into the fall.

Establishment: You can establish zoysia by seed, plugs or sod. You should seed at 1-2 pounds per 1000 ft. sq on BARE ground. Use a starter fertilizer (13-25-12) and water every day for 2-3 weeks. Plugs should be planted 4-6 per square foot and sod laid is like carpet. Water every day mow after 2-3 weeks or when you can’t lift it up. Don’t seed after July 1st and don’t use plugs or sod after August 1st (if possible?). You want these plants good and established before winter sets in!

Miscellaneous: Core aerate or power rake during the growing season = May to August. Apply grub control only if needed in late June. Water any time of the day, (unlike cool season grasses which need to be watered in the morning) 1-3 days a week after they are established. Fungicide use is almost non existent. When spraying weeds, read the label carefully! You can’t spray too early in the season because you may damage the grass. Spot spray only!

Bermuda:
Mow exactly like zoysia. Again, be careful mowing this short and NEVER mow cool season grasses this short consistently!

Fertilizing is a lot like zoysia, but a little more intense. I like to recommend fertilizing 3-4 times a year starting in mid May to mid August. Bermuda needs more nitrogen in a given year then zoysia does.

Establishment: This can established by seed or sod. Same seed rate (1-2#’s/1000 ft. sq.) as zoysia. Commercial customers can use “sprigs”, but it’s hard for me think of this as practical for home owners?

Miscellaneous: Some people ask, “What’s the difference between zoysia and Bermuda?” I tell them that if they can pick up a runner in July and it’s 10-12” long…you have Bermuda. Bermuda is much more aggressive in growth habit and its stolons (above ground roots) grow much more rapidly then zoysias. They both can be established with out even trying. If your neighbor has it and you have full sun, it’s only a matter of time before it makes its way into your yard. (I joking tell my students it’s easy to get rid of…just buy a new house)


Buffalo:
Mow like the others, but only about 5-6 times a year! (Read the rest of the article before you get too excited)

Fertilize, at the most once a year, with organics or a simple 12-12-12. (Continue reading)

Establishment: Again, available in seed or sod. I don’t know of any vendors with “plugs” or “sprigs”, but they could be out there?

Miscellaneous: I just described the perfect lawn, right? Not really. Buffalo never looks like what I would call a “perfect lawn”. You can see an example of Buffalo grass growing along the raised median just north of the History Museum in Forest Park. You will never mistake Buffalo grass for anything growing at Busch Stadium or in a golf course fairway. To each his own. If less mowing, watering and fertilization is what you want, you may consider it. If a nice, smooth lawn is your expectation, stay away from it.

Any good lawn care program starts with soil testing. If you haven’t done one lately, do it. Soil testing helps us make better lawn care decisions and will help prevent you from getting a “free” lime application from lawn care companies that only want your money. If some lawn care company wants to give you something free, tell them you want aeration free! Nothing is free, except this advice. Remember, it’s just grass!

Sunday, April 3, 2011

April Q & A : Can totally “organic” lawn care programs be successful?

by Glennon Kraemer
Lawn/Turf Spceialist
G.R. Robinson Seed & Service Co
8674 Olive St
St. Louis, MO 63132
314-432-0300

gmmseed@sbcglobal.net


The simple answer to the question is “yes”! The real question is: What is your definition of successful or organic? The beauty of horticulture is that everyone has their own definition of success. I have had customers tell me that dandelions are “Gods flowers”. My point is, success comes in many forms, so a few “weeds” here or there are no big deal. For others, they just aren’t acceptable.

When I teach my turf grass classes, I always get asked about organic options. I have tried many organic products and have come to some conclusions. For weed control, fungus control and insect control, organic products are generally ineffective and or expensive. Organic fertilizers, on the other hand, should be used more! It is my opinion, that it is almost impossible to have what I would call a “perfect” lawn, using nothing but an organic approach.

As with the definition of “successful”, the term “organic” is up to interpretation. True organic fertilizers (bio-solids, poultry, fish meals, etc) are being blended with synthetic  fertilizers and pre-emergences to make what I would call “hybrid” fertilizers. The companies can promote the products to be “organic”, but at the same time offer a higher percentage of nitrogen (which decreases bag usage) and conventional crabgrass controls sprayed on organic based fertilizers. Corn glutton is recognized as the leading organic crabgrass preventer. The cost of this product has skyrocketed and in my usage, was very ineffective. To be honest, I only used it once. A fairer assessment should have been done over 2-3 years.

My definition or plan for an organic program would be this:

*Use true organic fertilizers or their “hybred’ cousins
*Mow your grass at 3”-3 ½” if it’s a cool season turf or 2”-2 ½” if it’s a warm season turf
*Do a soil test every other year to be sure nutrient levels and pH are in balance
*Aerate and over seed every year for cool season lawns
*Learn to live with what weeds, insects or fungus activity you get

You can play with this plan to reach a happy medium with say your neighbors or spouse. I have to remind my clients that I am a horticulturist, not a marriage counselor. I am looking forward to using more products from an organic fertilizer company called “Nutrients Plus” this year. They were introduced to them last year and I will be trying them on a much larger scale this year. I’ll let you know how they work later this year. The key to organic fertilizer applications is timing. I recommend you apply organic fertilizers 5-6 times a year.(April-October) This will help build up the organic matter in your soil which should make the turf health and more resistant to weeds, insects and diseases. Cultural practices are more responsible for successful turf then any applications of products. When you combine proper cultural practices (mowing, watering, aerating) along with a sound fertilizer program, you will have a more successful lawn.

There will be a warm season turf grass at the Missouri Botanical Garden on April 18 if you are interested. Remember folks…“It’s just grass”!